Last summer, one day stands out. While on holiday on the Ionian island of Kefalonia, I persuaded three friends to spend a morning investigating a castle that has intrigued me. Situated on a high hill, the ruins command breathtaking views of the island’s mountains and blissful seaways. Picturesque though this place is, it is its association (which may be true or false) with an 11th-century anti-hero – Robert Guiscard – that has gripped my imagination.
Looking south from St George’s Hill on Kefalonia. Back in the 11th century, this commanding feature appears to have been the military target of an extraordinary Norman buccaneer: Robert Guiscard. Back then, the hill was crowned by chu
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