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Lives of great men all remind us
We can make our lives sublime,
And, departing, leave behind us
Footprints on the sands of time…
– from A Psalm of Life, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
A sand-filled hourglass rests on a long, sturdy wooden table inside the weathered barracks that once housed early 18th-century French soldiers. The timekeeping instrument, one of several artefacts and period pieces on display at Fort Niagara in Western New York, played an integral role in keeping military order on the otherwise wild frontier. Today, the idle relic symbolises the past, present, and future, reflecting the fort’s 300 years of continuous operational history, from muskets to missiles.
Founded in 1678 as Fort Conti in New France, the garrison stretches along the bluffs overlooking Lake Ontario to the north, while separated from Canada by the Niagara River to the east, and roughly eight miles north of Niagara Falls. The French Empire had entered its golden age as a world power under Louis XIV, who, in the 15th year of his sunny reign (there would be 57 more), sought to exploit the lucrative fur trade in the strategically vital Great Lakes region. Legendary explorer René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, spearheaded the expedition, expanding the vast Louisiana territory that would eventually reach the Gulf of Mexico.
The fort had originally been named for the Prince of Conti, the patron of La Salle’s venerable lieutenant Henri de Tonti. The Italian-born Tonti had earned his mettle (you’ll get the pun momentarily) fighting in the Franco-Dutch War, but lost his hand in a grenade explosion at the Siege of Messina. The setback would only stiffen his resolve, spurring the battle-hardened warrior to soldier on with a prosthetic metal hook covered by a glove, earning him the nickname ‘The Man with the Iron Hand’.
A strategic ‘chateau’
By the early 1700s, harsh weather, disease, and increasing tensions with native tribes caused the French to abandon the site. Fate, however, had other plans, largely thanks to an intrepid young officer whose colourful backstory rivalled that of his iron-handed predecessor. Louis-Thomas Chabert de Joncaire first arrived in New France in 1687 as an appointee to the Governor General’s Guards. Shortly afterwards, he was captured by the Seneca (part of the Five Nations Iroquois tribes) and was about to be burned alive when an indigenous woman intervened and adopted him. Joncaire would eventually immerse himself in Seneca culture, becoming fluent in the language. This skill set later proved invaluable to him as an interpreter for the French colonial government – a position he leveraged to secure permission to build a new, bolder structure on the same grounds as the old fort.
Completed in 1726 under Joncaire’s command, the building resembled a three-story stone chateau, a design intended to make the Seneca chiefs believe it would serve a peaceful purpose. The sturdy Maison à Machicoulis, or ‘Machicolated House’, featured walls four feet thick, with huge stone arches to absorb the lateral sway of cannon-fire from the top deck; an interior well protected the defenders against siege, enhancing its justified claim to be the finest fortress built on the western frontier.
Not unlike most waterfront estates in desirable locations with breathtaking views, the French property steadily appreciated in value as a military asset. But a decisive British victory in the French and Indian War (an extension of the Seven Years War in Europe) led to the bastion being taken into new ownership. C’est la vie. Two decades later, the American Revolution marked the next changing of the guard, and it has since remained the property of the United States.
Military activity at Fort Niagara over the years included training troops for the Spanish-American War and World War I, and housing German POWs captured in the North African campaign (note: an impressive collection of murals painted by the prisoners can still be found in the officers’ quarters). During the 1950s, the garrison became the headquarters for anti-aircraft artillery and Nike missiles.
The fort maintains its active-duty military presence, with the United States Coast Guard operating at the mouth of the Niagara River. Flags of the three nations that have occupied the grounds are prominently unfurled on the main grounds: France (1726-1759), Great Britain (1759-1796, 1814), and the United States (1796-1813, 1815-present).
Spirited history
Visitors can choose between self-guided and curated tours. Due to the rustic nature of the expansive grounds, caution and proper footwear are encouraged – especially when storming the castle. The fort hosts many living history events and heritage days, and, during the summer months, daily musket demonstrations are usually popular draws, featuring soldiers in a variety of authentically crafted uniforms. The 2026 season includes a 300-year celebration of the so-called ‘French Castle’, with re-enactors portraying explorers, traders, missionaries, and soldiers in this interactive event.
Few living souls know more about the history of Fort Niagara than its curator Robert Emerson. ‘Visitors catch a glimpse of what life was like on the Niagara Frontier during the 18th century by exploring the material culture of the time,’ he explained in a recent interview. ‘They not only do they learn what happened here, but why. Events that occurred here still impact our lives today. This includes topics such as national boundaries, language, and culture.’
One of the many intriguing stories is that of Betsy ‘Fanny’ Doyle, an American army wife who lived at Fort Niagara with her husband Andrew Doyle and their four children in the early 19th century. When Andrew was taken prisoner during the War of 1812, and subsequently shipped off to Dartmoor Prison in England, Betsy refused to lament, choosing revenge instead. She exhibited dauntless courage and fortitude by carrying red-hot 6-pound cannonballs (‘hotshot’) to an artillery piece on the third floor of the French Castle. The fort’s commander Lieutenant Colonel George McFeely recorded her heroic actions in his official report, comparing her to Joan of Arc.
The Yankee Hotspur is now honoured with a historical marker and two plaques situated near the spot where she handed off hotshot to gunners in November 1812. By comparison, only a North London derby is considered more spirited.
Fort Niagara
Opening times vary by season ($21)
Old Fort Niagara, 102 Morrow Plaza, Youngstown, NY 14174-0169
www.oldfortniagara.org
(+1) 716-745-7611
MHM visits
EXHIBITION
The Bayeux Tapestry
September 2026-July 2027
British Museum, Great Russell Street, London WC1B 3DG
http://www.britishmuseum.org/exhibitions/bayeux-tapestry
Tickets on sale from 1 July
For the first time since it was made nearly 1,000 years ago, the Bayeux Tapestry is returning to England. Following a historic agreement with France, the 70m-long tapestry, depicting events leading up to the Battle of Hastings and the Norman Conquest of England in 1066, will be loaned to the British Museum for a temporary exhibition.
EVENT
Tankfest
26-28 June
The Tank Museum, Linsay Road, Bovington, Wareham BH20 6JG
https://tankmuseum.org/events/tankfest
Ticket prices vary
The world’s best display of historic moving armour returns for three explosive days in June. See the Museum’s stars running alongside guest tanks and vehicles from the British Army. You can also hear lectures from tank experts, explore Living History encampments, and see the collection of tanks inside the Tank Museum.
EXHIBITION
The Declaration’s Journey
Until 3 January 2027
Museum of the American Revolution, 101 South 3rd Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, USA
http://www.amrevmuseum.org/exhibits/the-declaration-s-journey
Entry included in museum admission
The Declaration’s Journey marks the 250th anniversary of the nation’s founding by exploring the history and global impact of the Declaration of Independence from 1776 to today. The exhibition gathers together for the first time some of the most important and rare documents, works of art, and artefacts from around the world that reflect the Declaration’s complex past and legacy.
