The Alcázar, a huge cube-shaped medieval fortress, looms over Toledo, a conservative city 40 miles south of Madrid. Ringed by the River Tagus, Toledo is famous for its many churches, its production of bladed weapons, and as the one-time home of the Spanish Renaissance artist El Greco.
But, to this day, it is the Alcázar, on a height overlooking the town, that dominates, resembling the White Tower, the oldest part of the Tower of London, with its sheer walls and four rectangular turrets – one at each corner. Ninety years ago, in 1936, this vast building was used as Spain’s principal academy for training army officers – the Spanish equivalent of Sandhurst or West Point.
Tol
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