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Everyone has a story to tell. So do warships. The saga of the USS The Sullivans, which was launched in April 1943, is still making headlines today. The Fletcher-class destroyer is one of three decommissioned World War II- era naval vessels to be found at the Buffalo and Erie County Naval & Military Park on Lake Erie’s waterfront in western New York State.
The Park features an indoor museum, a monuments garden, and several other military vehicles and aircraft, including an M41 Walker Bulldog tank, an F-101 Voodoo jet fighter, and a UH-1 ‘Huey’ helicopter. But the warships take centre stage, allowing visitors to climb aboard the trio of historic vessels via self-guided and curated tours.
Five brothers
In January 1942, five brothers from Waterloo, Iowa – George, Frank, Joe, Matt, and Al Sullivan (pictured, inset right) – enlisted in the US Navy on the condition that they’d be allowed to ‘stick together’ and serve on the same ship. The siblings were assigned to the light cruiser USS Juneau (CL-52), and they eventually saw action in the South Pacific.
On 13 November 1942, Juneau was hit by a torpedo during the Battle of Guadalcanal; the crippled vessel managed to make repairs, but suffered another attack while attempting to return to the US base at Espiritu Santo in the New Hebrides. A torpedo strike from the Japanese submarine I-26 hit Juneau’s magazine, causing a massive explosion that sank the cruiser in less than a minute. Nearly 700 sailors were killed, including all five Sullivan brothers. The tragedy remains the greatest combat-related loss of life by a single family at one time in American military history.
In honour of their sacrifice, the Navy commissioned USS The Sullivans (DD-537) with the motto, ‘We stick together!’ She also became the first US warship named for more than one person. The 376ft (115m) destroyer featured armament consisting of four 5-inch/38-calibre guns, one 3-inch/50-calibre gun, and two twin 40mm guns.
Several members of the Sullivan family, including the brothers’ parents, were on hand at the launching of the ship (pictured below) in April 1943. The Sullivans would go on to engage in several island-hopping operations in the Pacific – a prolonged period of combat that included shooting down eight Japanese planes, bombarding Iwo Jima and Okinawa, and rescue missions involving American servicemen from burning or sinking vessels.
The Sullivans earned nine battle stars for her service during the conflict, and remained active in the Korean War (earning two more battle stars) and the Cuban Missile Crisis. In 1965, the destroyer was decommissioned before eventually mooring on the Buffalo waterfront. But the story doesn’t end there.
In April 2021, The Sullivans began listing and taking water into the hull at an alarming rate, due to age and weather. Emergency crews were able to right the ship, but a series of heavy storms inflicted further damage.
The resilient ship remains open to the public thanks to extensive fundraising to help with restoration. At the time of writing, plans are under way to have The Sullivans temporarily dry-docked for additional repairs and to preserve her enduring legacy. Stay tuned.
USS Little Rock
USS Little Rock is the last surviving vessel from the Cleveland-class of light cruisers in the world. Named after the state capital of Arkansas and measuring 610ft (185m), the behemoth warship is the Park’s biggest – and most popular – attraction. ‘She certainly is the largest,’ said Shane Stephenson, Director of Museum Collections, ‘and she is the last ship in the world in that configuration, so many people are interested in touring and learning about her.’
Classified initially as CL-92 in 1945, Little Rock launched too late to see action during World War II, but later became one of six ships to be converted into a Galveston-class guided-missile cruiser. The ship underwent extensive modifications to accommodate the Talos missile system (Talos was a giant bronze man in Greek mythology) and was recommissioned as CLG-4. During the Cold War, the Rock served as the flagship of the US 2nd and 6th Fleet, with patrols ranging from the Arctic Circle to South America.
After being decommissioned in 1976, Little Rock arrived in Buffalo for permanent display the following year. The ship hosts a variety of entertainment and educational activities, including overnight youth encampment programmes.
Silent Service
During World War II, the US Navy named its Gato-class submarines after varieties of fish, including the small, ray-finned species known for the repetitive drumming or ‘croaking’ sounds they make. With Commander John Elwood Lee at the helm, USS Croaker (SS-246) began active duty in April 1944 and was deployed to the Pacific Theater.
The 311ft (95m) submarine had an immediate impact, unleashing a series of successful attacks on her first patrol in the East China Sea. On 7 August, Croaker spotted the battled-seasoned Japanese cruiser Nagara and fired a salvo of four stern torpedoes, with one hitting the enemy vessel starboard aft. Nagara quickly sank off the Amakusa Islands in southern Japan.
The ‘Silent Service’ American boat took part in six patrols and sank 11 enemy vessels during the war, earning three battle stars and the Navy Unit Commendation. She was later converted to a ‘hunter-killer’ submarine (SKG-246) with added sonar, radar, and quieting capabilities to combat the Russian threat during the Cold War. She was decommissioned in 1971, and brought to the Park in 1988.
Visitors navigating the narrow passageways of the sub (pictured below) will find recreated living conditions (minus the funky melange of sweat, diesel, and sewage) with fine details such as a half-smoked cigarette in the commanding officer’s stateroom and a fully stocked (and cramped) kitchen.
Extensive displays
The Museum Building itself houses a restaurant, gift shop, an extensive display of military memorabilia, and several rotating and permanent exhibits, primarily focused on the history of western New York State during wartime. In addition, the Field HQ Tent presents videos showcasing the Naval Park.
As a tribute to the former Bell Aircraft Corporation in Buffalo, a P-39 Airacobra prominently hangs from the ceiling (pictured below). The fighter is one of 9,500 P-39s built at the Bell plant during World War II, and is notable for its revolutionary design, which prioritised firepower over speed and manoeuvrability.
The Airacobra, which saw extensive use by the Soviet Air Force on the Eastern Front in Europe, was the only World War II aircraft with the engine behind the pilot to accommodate the protruding 37mm cannon in the nose.
The Park operates seasonally from late March to November. Walk-up admission is available, but guests are encouraged to reserve tickets online to speed up the admission process. A visit to this, the largest inland naval museum in the country, is thoroughly recommended.
Buffalo and Erie County Naval & Military Park
Seasonal opening hours; see website for admission times
1 Naval Park Cove, Buffalo, New York, US
www.buffalonavalpark.org
+1 716 847 1773
All images: Christopher Warner/Buffalo and Erie County Naval & Military Park, unless otherwise stated
WORTH CHECKING OUT… Upcoming Events and Exhibitions
GALLERY
Outside the Lines: women artists and war
Until 5 January 2025
Canadian War Museum, 1 Vimy Place, Ottawa, Canada
http://www.warmuseum.ca/outside-the-lines
Admission CA$21 (adult)
Featuring some 70 paintings, drawings, photographs, and sculptures, Outside the Lines explores how women artists have depicted Canada’s military history across two centuries. The gallery also includes specially commissioned work from Elise Lavallee Findlay, the Canadian War Museum’s first ever artist-in-residence.
EXHIBITION
Shakespeare and War
Until 1 September 2024
National Army Museum, Royal Hospital Road, London, UK
http://www.nam.ac.uk/whats-on/shakespeare-and-war
Admission free
War is a frequent theme of Shakespeare’s writing, and his plays have been used to rally the nation in times of crisis – as well as to reflect on the human cost of conflict. This exhibition explores how the Bard’s work has shaped our attitudes to conflict across history.
GALLERY
Ukraine: our ordinary lives
Ongoing
IWM North, Trafford Wharf Road, Trafford Park, Stretford, Manchester, UK
http://www.iwm.org.uk/events/ukraine-our-ordinary-lives
Admission free
Over the past decade, the war between Ukraine and Russia has become one of the most devastating conflicts in Europe since the Second World War. IWM North follows the lives and experience of 15 young Ukrainians, as they try to find normality in challenging times.
EXHIBITION
The Little War
Until 9 February 2025
National WWI Museum, 2 Memorial Drive, Kansas City, US
http://www.theworldwar.org/exhibitions/little-war
Admission $10 (adult)
For children throughout history, war has meant many things: saying goodbye to parents, fleeing homes, or enduring hunger and hardship. This featured exhibition, created specifically for both infants and adults to appreciate, looks at the history of the Great War from a child’s perspective.
