The valley that leads away from Castaglione towards Bologna in north-east Italy is just as beautiful today as it must have been in the autumn of 1944. Yet the shell holes on the Catarelto Ridge which bounds the valley are still visible, and hidden among the young fir-trees slit trenches can still be found.
My Italian guide had a little handheld metal-detector with him, and it buzzed away happily as we grubbed fragments from the ground – mortar splinters, bully-beef tins, and Mauser cases, along with the ubiquitous metal links for German MG42 machine-guns.
Catarelto marked the central part of the Germans’ final defensive position in Italy: the Gothic Line. In the eastern sector, the
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