Wadi Rum, a stunning desert expanse in the south-western corner of Jordan, has long captivated adventurers with its vast landscapes, but its ancient secrets have stayed hidden in plain sight. Only in recent years have archaeologists really started to appreciate the prehistoric and protohistoric rock art that dots the area. This rock art – both carved and painted – offers glimpses into the lives and imaginations of those who once roamed these lands. Most of the carvings feature recognisable figures. There are sweeping-horned ibexes, wading birds, camels, and human forms caught in various stances and roles. The paintings, however, are harder to make out. Long-term exposure to the harsh elements and intentional hiding by their creators make them a challenge to find. These painted images stand apart from their carved counterparts stylistically, and, until recently, there was an added puzzle: the lack of overlapping layers made it difficult to piece together their historical sequence. This, however, is starting to change.
In 2023, we led a special expedition to the less-trodden side of Wadi Rum. Our mission? To scout out hidden painted panels for potential dating and chemical analysis, while also studying engravings in the rugged uplands of this now harsh, dry landscape. Wadi Rum itself is far more than just a valley – it spans a staggering 750km² of lofty rock formations and sweeping desert vistas, about 75km east of Aqaba. While it may seem barren, pockets of vegetation can be found near water sources like aquifers and waterholes. Over geological time, water carved deep paths through granite and sandstone, creating dramatic rock massifs with towering vertical walls, jagged peaks, and tight inlets.
A crossroads of culture
Past researchers divided the rock art into three main cultural phases: Nabataean, Bedouin, and early Islamic cultures. The Nabataeans were known for their figurative carvings, while later cultures focused on abstract symbols, religious inscriptions, and popular text. But, as new findings emerge, it is clear that the story is far more intricate and layered, inviting us to rethink the timeline and meaning of this ancient desert art.
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