Travel

Right The Cathedral of Our Lady in the monastery complex of Gelati near Kutaisi, in the Imereti region of Georgia. It was founded by King Davit IV in 1106 and was consecrated in 1130 by King Demetre I. The monastery was also an academy of science. A 16th century mural in the cathedral shows various recognisable historical figures (above). These are, from right to left, the founder King Davit IV (r. 1089 1125), with a model church; Catholicos Yevdemon Chkhetidze; King Bagrat III of Imereti (r. 1510 1565), his wife Elena, and their son King Giorgi II of Imereti (r. 1565 1585), and Prince Bagrat.

The Golden Age of the Kingdom of Georgia

The Caucasus is a region where nations have often found themselves sandwiched between competing great powers. Christoph Baumer examines the political intrigues and military struggles that led to the rise and fall of the Kingdom of Georgia, while taking in some of the key monuments from the era.

Sicily: An isle of myth

The impressive ancient temples, villas, and theatres of Sicily understandably attract the attention of many visitors, but looking beyond the monuments to their spectacular natural surroundings and the stories they inspired also offers a way to understand the island’s ancient societies. David Stuttard guides us through Sicily’s mythological landscapes.

Above Niches were carved in the walls of another of the chambers of the Ipogeo dei Cristallini when the tomb was reused for burials in the Roman period.

Underground Naples

The layers of tunnels under Naples preserve traces of Greek life and death in ancient Italy. Dalu Jones heads beneath the surface to visit ongoing restoration work that is making an ancient tomb and its rare surviving Greek paintings accessible to the public.

ABOVE The Mausoleum of Augustus, as seen in the summer of 2017. The poor state of the monument in 2014 the 2,000th anniversary of Augustus’ death helped to prompt the establishment of LoveItaly.

Tracy Roberts and LoveItaly

Based in Rome, LoveItaly is now in its seventh year and its accent is decidedly American and not patrician. It owes everything to the dynamism of a Californian who is every bit as Roman as the Romans.

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Who beheaded the emperors of Chiragan?

One of the finest collections of Roman emperors is to be found hidden away in the Musée Saint-Raymond, the archaeological museum of Toulouse, in south-western France. But where did they come from, and how did such a magnificent collection of Roman emperors come to lose their heads?

The Lost City of Norchia

Upper Palaeolithic flints, Eneolithic tombs, and remains of a Bronze Age semicircular hut, as well as a tomb with a Villanovan shield, show that the place evolved over time, before being bafflingly abandoned in the earlier Iron Age.

Queen Adelaide’s castle in the Tuscan marches

Thanks to modern scientific analyses, the every-day circumstances of Tuscany’s Dark Age peoples are no longer mute. One thing is certain from this excavation: objects and nature played an active part in transforming the primitive experiences of Tuscany’s 9th-century peasants and their early feudal masters into some of the most sophisticated lifestyles in Europe by the 12th century.

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Esfahan, Iran

Esfahan is little known in the West, but it has some of the world’s great architecture – not only mosques, but also its palaces, its gardens, and last but not least, its fine bridges.

Sailing to Ithaca?

Is Ithaca, in fact, Odysseus’ island, where Penelope faithfully weaved, steadfastly waiting for her mischievous prince in their well-appointed palace?

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Lascaux IV

As far as I could tell, every minor contour of the original has been replicated, as of course have the paintings themselves.

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Appointing Pompeii’s Director

Beyond the island I saw the thin campanile of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, which houses the Mouth of Truth, a bucket- list ‘must’ thanks to the incomparable Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday (1953).