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In 1993, the House of Commons Public Accounts Committee described the setting and presentation of Stonehenge as ‘a national disgrace’. Two decades later, we finally have a remedy – a spanking new visitor centre to cater for travellers’ bodily needs and to prepare them for an encounter with the monument. What is more, the road that once severed Stonehenge from the Avenue has gone, restoring the link between the monument and its processional way. Chris Catling went there, gazed in awe, and wants to go back again very soon.