Left An artist’s impression of the former precinct of St Mary Spital in c.1640, looking north west towards Bishopsgate and showing (foreground) the Civil War Star Fort; (right) the converted medieval chapel with its charnel crypt; and (centre) the Earl of Bolingbroke’s house (Spittle House), with Spital Yard and the principal tenement to its right.

Excavating Spitalfields Market

The MOLA (Museum of London Archaeology) Spitalfields Market excavations in 1991-2007 were one of Britain’s largest ever digs. Four major publications are being produced to cover the results. The latest volume concerns the post-medieval era (1539-1880), which was a period that saw vast social transformations, as Chiz Harward and Nigel Jeffries explain.

It was a dreary November day and I stood in the middle of an urban wasteland, recalls Chiz Harward. Behind me lay Bishopsgate and the City of London, in front of me was Spitalfields Market. It was 1998, I had just turned 25, and it was my first project as a supervisor for MOLA. As I stood with colleagues in the drizzle, waiting for the digger to be delivered, the scale of the project was immediately apparent.

left An artist’s impression of the former precinct of St Mary Spital in c.1640, looking north-west towards Bishopsgate and showing (foreground) the Civil War Star Fort; (right) the converted medieval chapel with its charnel crypt; and (centre) the Earl of Bolingbroke’s house (Spittle House), with Spital Yard and the principal tenement to its right.
An artist’s impression of the former precinct of St Mary Spital in c.1640, looking north-west towards Bishopsgate and showing (foreground) the Civil War Star Fort; (right) the converted medieval chapel with its charnel crypt; and (centre) the Earl of Bolingbroke’s house (Spittle House), with Spital Yard and the principal tenement to its right. Image: MOLA / Faith Vardy.

London’s Spitalfield Market excavations were, in many ways, without parallel. Within this massive ten-acre site, vast swathes of lost London were revealed. Some of the results are well known, having featured in the pages of this magazine and on television. The earliest evidence consisted of an extensive Roman cemetery, within which we found the now-famous stone sarcophagus with its decorated lead coffin containing the remains of a woman (CA 162). From the late 12th century, Spitalfields became home to the medieval Augustinian priory hospital of St Mary Spital and its precincts (from which the area takes it name). Within its grounds, we excavated the remains of almost 11,000 people – achieving what is believed to be the largest archaeological excavation of a cemetery in the world (CA 270).

above Overlooking part of the 1999 excavations outside the Spitalfields Market building.
Overlooking part of the 1999 excavations outside the Spitalfields Market building.

However, it is the post-medieval period (1539-1880), the subject of our latest volume, that is perhaps the least known of the ‘three periods’ so far published – despite being the most immediate and information-rich. For the first time we can draw not only on the excavated stratigraphy and artefacts, but also on a wide range of historical documents, including contemporary maps (see box on p.36), land-leases, and water-colours. Binding together this extensive range of evidence offers new insights into the past, and sometimes even tantalising glimpses of the very individuals who once lived on the site. In this way, we have revealed not only the physical development of Spitalfields from the Dissolution onwards, but also an intimate social history of the site.