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Hilary Wilson on… The sidelock of youth

When was this curious hairstyle used and what was its significance?

Egyptian artists worked within a canon of representation that stylised, idealised, and emphasised particular traits of the human form. This is apparent in the composition of Old Kingdom statue groups, where a wife is shown on a smaller scale than her husband, and their children smaller still. Where colour remains, male figures appear deeply tanned with red-brown skin, while females have lighter complexions of a pinkish or yellowish tone. Their clothing is shown as pristine, and their coiffures are perfect in every curl or braid. Prepubescent sons and daughters appear as miniature adults, but identified as children by their nakedness, by the finger raised to their lips, and by their lack of hair. The classic childish hairstyle was a closely cropped or shaved head, apart from a single plait hanging from the scalp behind the right ear. The bound end of this braid is shown curled and was probably set with some kind of applied wax or animal fat, possibly mixed with clay, as is the custom with the Himba people of Namibia. 

Fifth Dynasty group statue, now part of the collections at the Brooklyn Museum of Art, from Giza. It shows Nykara, Inspector of Granary Scribes. His son, Ankhmara, appears as a naked child with a sidelock, despite also being described as a Granary Scribe. 

This ‘sidelock of youth’, more commonly worn by boys, seems to have been abandoned at the onset of puberty, perhaps cut off as symbolic of the transition to adulthood. Family groups on tomb stelae are frequently represented with the children all equal in height, and relative ages are implied by the order in which the children stand before their parents, and the nuances of their clothing and hairstyle. However, even when a son holds titles indicating his professional role, he may still be depicted, in his father’s tomb, naked with the sidelock, emphasising his subordinate status in relation to his parent.

The Fifth Dynasty false door stela of Penmeru from Giza, held by Boston Museum of Fine Arts (MFA). Penmeru’s son and daughter are distinguished as children by their nakedness, and the sidelock hanging behind the right ear.
Hetepherakhty’s son Ankhenptah is shown as a child with the sidelock of youth, though he holds the title Senior Scribe. The relief is from Leiden National Museum of Antiquities.

Hairstyles for both men and women changed over time, as did the form of the youthful sidelock. In the New Kingdom, the curled plait was replaced by flowing tresses or a collection of braids, gathered in a decorative clasp on one side of the head, as worn by Nebamun’s daughter in the fowling scene. The daughters of Bakenamun, Queen Tiy’s cook, wear their hair in multiple plaits, while their brother sports the traditional sidelock, which appears to be worn on the left side of the head because of the left-orientation of the figures.

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